Citrus Risotto/The Delicious Confluence of Cultures

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I find it fascinating how history and geography contribute to the evolution of a cuisine.  We consider risotto to be an Italian dish–in fact, Northern Italian…from Milan. However, rice was first introduced to Italy by way of Sicily. It was introduced to Sicily by the Arabs during their rule of the island beginning in 827. The Arabs also introduced saffron-an important ingredient in traditional risotto Milanese. Later, it was cultivated in Piedmont since it has an abundance of low-lying plains and river basins. Up until about sixty years ago, lines of young women could be seen crouching in those rice paddies all day. This was depicted in the 1949 neo-realistic film Riso Amaro meaning “bitter rice.”

The Italians then made risotto the Italian dish it is today by adding other ingredients. They included chopped shallots or onions, parmigiano cheese, and of course–wine.  There is a saying in Italy: “Rice is born in water but dies in wine.”

Although risotto is associated with Northern Italian cuisine, I offer this variation that brings the journey back to Sicily. The Sicilians love to combine sweet with savory in their cuisine.  But, you see–that is likely also the result of Arab influence. This citrus risotto beautifully blends the sweetness of the oranges with their slightly bitter zest. You would think that adding parmigiano to this would seem strange but you’ll see–it works wonderfully well.

This dish is a celebration of the confluence of cultures throughout history and across the world. That joining of ideas has brought many of the wonderful dishes and cuisines that we enjoy today. This is such an important reminder. When we are open-minded enough to learn from others and are willing to fold in new ideas and different viewpoints to the familiar–the result is beautiful. A fusion of flavors and textures is added to our lives to create something new. It allows for something that we couldn’t have achieved in isolation.

Citrus Risotto

This recipe is adapted from Alice Waters’ book Chez Panisse Fruit.  brightness of the citrus is a great foil to the richness of risotto.  It’s delicious with fish or chicken.   

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Ingredients

  

• 1 Meyer Lemon
• 1 tangerine
• 1 lime
• 1 blood or Cara Cara orange
• 1 ruby red grapefruit
• 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
• 3 tbs unsalted butter
• 2 medium shallots
• 2 cups Arborio, Carnaroli or Baldo rice
• 1 cup dry white vermouth or white wine
• 1 tsp kosher or sea salt
• 1/3 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

Instructions

 

•  With a vegetable peeler, remove about half of the zest from all of the citrus except the grapefruit.  Only zest about a quarter of the grapefruit.  Take care to peel only the thin outer colored part, leaving the bitter white pith below.  Put the zest strips into a small saucepan of boiling water and cook for about three minutes.  Drain them, and when they are cool enough to handle, cut them crosswise into a tiny julienne.  You should have about 2 tablespoons. 
• Cut away all the remaining rind from the citrus so that none of the zest or pith remains.  Then, cut the sections free, carefully slicing along the inner membranes with a pairing knife so that the individual sections have only flesh-no bitter membranes.  Set aside about a quarter of the grapefruit sections and about half of all of the other citrus to add to the risotto later and to garnish it.  
• Heat the stock to a bare simmer.  Dice the shallots and saute it in a heavy-bottomed pan in 2 tbsp of butter.  When the shallots are soft, add the rice.  Cook the rice in butter, stirring often for 3 to 4 minutes until the individual grains become translucent.  Add the vermouth or wine, stir well, and when the rice has absorbed all of the wine begin adding the stock, a ladleful at a time. Cook the risotto at a simmer, stirring frequently and adding more stock as each addition is absorbed by the rice.  Each addition of broth should just cover the rice.  Keep stirring to prevent sticking and to develop the starch in the rice.  Add the salt with the second addition of stock.  After about 10 minutes, add the zest and half of the reserved fruit.    
• When the rice is almost done but still a little al dente, turn off the heat and stir in the remaining tablespoon of butter, the grated cheese, and the rest of the fruit sections.  Stir well and let sit for a few minutes before serving.